Friday, June 26, 2015

One year ago, I was standing on the summit of Kilimanjaro

One year ago today, I was standing on the highest point in Africa and the tallest free-standing volcano in the world: Mt. Kilimanjaro 19,341 ft above sea level.  Below is the write up that I wrote for the Dirtbag Darling blog, and also for my hometown newspaper.  Long story short -- dream come true.  Thanks for reliving it with me...


I had always had this inexplicable love and fascination with this corner of the world and its culture, and felt like a little piece of my heart has always been there. 

Growing up in the hilly countryside of the Mississippi River Valley, I always had a love for the “unplugged” life and the outdoors.  If I woke up and the sun was shining, I was always pestering my dad to take me outside and explore the woods around the English Bench in northeast Iowa.  I was never the typical 4-sport athlete growing up, but I excelled at swimming which made me strong and taught me more about my own strength.  Two months after graduating from college with a teaching degree, I landed my first job as a middle school math teacher in Loveland, Colorado.  It was the best decision I’ve ever made for my life.

The Rocky Mountains lure a lot of Midwesterners out to Colorado, and I was no different.  Two weeks after moving, I went and climbed the highest peak in Colorado.  Even though it's the highest, it's one of the easiest mountains to climb – dubbed a “walk-up” hike that requires no technical skill or climbing, just the ability to walk at an incline.  It takes the body several weeks to months to fully adjust to altitude and start producing more red blood cells, so it was one of the hardest things I had ever done.  Climbing mountains in Colorado is like being part of a club; lots of people try it, but others, like me, get hooked in an addictive sort of way.   Of the 58 Colorado mountains exceeding 14,000 feet above sea level, I have climbed 38 in the almost 4 years that I’ve been here, and almost 10 more that are between 12.000 and 14,000 feet.  

I think I’ve taken to this sport because I can be so successful at it without having been the superstar athlete as a kid, you just need the knowledge and time it demands.  Yes, it really is a sport.  It takes practice and strength, but unlike other sports, there’s no competition in it; it’s a conquering of personal weakness and self-doubt. 

Last fall when I ran across the opportunity to go to Africa and climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, it was the easiest yes I’ve ever had to say!  It was a combination of a lifelong love and a more recent passion rolled into one.  I was confident that I would be successful in this climb because of all the “training” I had here in Colorado above 14,000 feet.  It’s no Mt. Everest, but it’s definitely a huge time and financial commitment – and most importantly a privilege to get to have the chance to travel and climb overseas.  The route we took, the Machame route, was about a week long, taking almost 5 days to slowly trek up and acclimatize, and I felt fantastic the whole time because we were at elevations that I was already used to.  It started off rainy, and it was a light mist for the first 3.5 days… I wasn’t having very much fun in those conditions!  It was constantly damp and just dreary.  



Finally by the 4th day we were high enough that we were above the rainforest cloud layer and dry – yet cold.  Only above 15,000 feet on the night that we planned to summit did I finally notice the lack of oxygen.  From the high camp at 15,000ft, we got up at 2:00am to start the 4 hour trek to the very top.  I don’t have asthma, but now I think I had a good idea of what that might feel like!  Every step was painfully slow, so slow that my body never warmed up from moving.  I was breathing so hard for air and wondered if this is what suffocating must feel like – not being able to take in a full and satisfying breath.  I wanted to hike faster so that I could keep my blood pumping to stay warm, but I was already using all the energy that I had to keep me going at my slow and steady pace.  I struggled to keep feeling in my hands and feet by wiggling them but they inevitably went painfully numb.  I am always naturally a cold person, and I was wearing every layer that I had that night, so I don’t know what else I could have done to stay warm.  



By sunrise, our group was cresting the crater rim, and there were already quite a few people there.  Kilimanjaro is a giant volcano, so where we crested wasn’t considered the true highest point; we needed to keep walking around the rim another 20-30 minutes to the other side of the crater.  The wind was definitely stronger at the top.  While hiking, I had looked down at my feet most of the way as I walked up and didn’t even notice that the rest of my group in front of me had stopped behind a huge rock to take a break from the wind.  When I looked up and didn’t see anyone from my group I figured I was just too slow and that they had all had a sudden burst of energy and raced the last 20 minutes to the other side of the official summit, and I was left in the dust.  This climb was absolutely a humbling experience.  It was never about who could get there the fastest, who was the strongest, or about proving one’s strength and fitness.  I was the caboose of my small group by choice.  I was physically struggling and I was almost at my limit.  I wasn’t ashamed to admit it.  I knew I could still do this and so one step at a time, I’d get there and I’d be proud at what I’d accomplished and I wouldn’t compare myself to anyone else. 

Photo: Jon Kedrowski.  Looking back at the summit heading back down
I got within view of the summit and saw the sign that marked the official summit in the distance, and I didn’t see anyone else at all.  Where was my group?  Where was anyone?!  I was hiking with one of the local porters that was accompanying our group, and the two of us were the only two people in sight.  We slowly trudged closer.  I heard someone calling my name from behind me, and our group leader was actually running up to catch up with me.  He had climbed to the top of that big rock that everyone else had taken shelter behind to keep an eye out for me, but when I kept walking past it he didn’t see me and had thought I didn’t make it and that I had to turn back around… I didn’t see everyone pause behind the rock and no one else saw me continue on past the crowd of other people.  I truly felt like I didn’t deserve it, but I ended up being the first person to reach summit that day, out of hundreds of people, just past 6:30am on June 26th.  


The three of us enjoyed almost 10 minutes all to ourselves on the rooftop of Africa before the others in our group made it up one by one for our group summit photo.  I was more concerned that I wasn’t with my group that I didn’t even realize that I was the first person there that morning.  Talk about a summit high!  This climb will go down as one I will never ever forget.  My first big international climb - of many I hope! 


We still had one week left in Africa after we descended.  We got to go on three days of safaris through Tanzanian National Parks, and spend a few days in the local villages experiencing the real, authentic local culture that I always dreamed about.  The days we spent touring the local villages made me feel like I was on a National Geographic documentary.  I had just summited the tallest mountain on the continent of Africa.  We were driving through a park and had to stop to let an elephant (not a deer, or family of possums) cross the road.





After returning back to the US, it was only one night’s rest before I was back out on another 14er.  I had the rest of my summer in front of me and nothing else on the calendar and I got to live out every day doing what I have absolutely fallen in love with.  I felt so spoiled!  I didn’t go more than three days between mountain summits;  I only spent a total of 6 nights not in a tent somewhere around the world.  I climbed more relatively “easy” 14ers, and even more that were labeled as dangerous and deadly, totaling 16 more after Africa.  I finished up my summer with a bang - two more glacier climbs in the Pacific Northwest, Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams.  I camped overnight on Mt. Adams for my first summit sleepover, and arrived back home on a Sunday night where school started the next morning!  By the end of this summer, I climbed a grand total of 20 mountains. 


Five years ago I never would have pictured myself being where I am.  I keep proving to myself what I am capable of and getting to newer heights that seemed so unattainable for someone like me before.  I will always love northeast Iowa as the place I was raised, but from the start, Colorado has felt more like “home” to me than anywhere else. 

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